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Wednesday, 11 March 2020

Welsh white water

Grandson Ian is staying for the Borderlines Film Festival and there are still more films to go. When we have only one movie a day (or none at all) we look for diversions. We had planned a drive into wildest Wales, up the Elam Valley past the chain of reservoirs built ambitiously and expensively by the Victorians. But the forecast said yet more rain (and thus more flooding) and this is remote territory to get stuck in. But the morning was bright and optimistic and I thought: Bugger it! Why not?

Which led to an epiphany.

We've done this run before and the roads get narrower and more vestigial. Also, on this occasion, more sodden. But ahead was a touring bus based surprisingly in Ingleton, a settlement in the pretty part of Yorkshire, my home county. The driver was taking things easy, splashing along, and we weren't in a hurry.

Eventually we reached the lowest reservoir and briefly parked. Across the road is a substantial viewing area overlooking the lip of the reservoir wall. A woman coming in the opposite direction warned us, intensely, to take care: the wind had almost blown her over. She wasn't kidding. I was buffeted by hard cushions of wind and the overflow of water roared down 150 metres into a raging white fog. The natural power was palpable, my sense of self shrunk to nothingness.

But here's the epiphany. VR is uncertain on her pins these days but had insisted on coming with me to that violent edge. I held her tight and we stayed only a few seconds, but these were seconds of extreme experience. "It's wonderful," she shouted against the tumult, "I'm glad I came."

A fig for being old.

6 comments:

  1. Wonderful - literally. I was heartened by V's reaction coming from one who has nno regular physical affinity with The Great Outdoors (as far as I know.) I particulally enjoy the Victorian architecture, bold and almost brutal that goes with those dams. You brought back my memory of Lake Vyrnwy when I was walking the MacMillan Way (Boston to Barmouth) in 2015 - see link to photos. Click on first thumbnail to see rest enlarged.
    https://www.dropbox.com/sh/1f68wacv7twn882/AADoPblgKX-hUYMTQ3JW7vnra?dl=0

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  2. I love that last paragraph so much. That violent edge, your tight hold, VR's shout against the tumult. I could feel that across the ocean all the way to the far north coast of California.

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  3. Sir Hugh: In itself the event was unexceptional; it was our feelings that mattered. Then came the business of translating feelings into words. Best if one can choose simple words contained in short sentences, while somehow avoiding banality. For me there was the addition of VR's unexpected reaction and her surprising lack of fear. This pleased me but pleasure is dangerous, a temptation to gush.

    I checked your link and it must surely have been the same architect. Given an unfettered brief. A long, long way from present-day attitudes (I watched the new Chancellor delivering his budget an hour or so ago) ruled by unfairly distributed cash, lying and mean-spiritedness.

    robin andrea: The unexpected side-effect of a long marriage. Wish you'd been there.

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  4. Like Robin, I love this a lot. I'm so glad you all went. What a beautiful experience.

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  5. Colette: Interesting how bad weather can be a source of beauty.

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  6. What a lovely path, easy and wandering, up to the surprising crescendo!

    Back from California (with a bug, but it seems not The Bug) and trying to catch up with all that is scattered...

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